Darjeeling to Kathmandu

Right, so where to begin. After my last post, I heard from the British Foreign Office that the border to Nepal would be closed on my proposed day of travel. Nobody in Darjeeling seemed to know anything about this, popular consensus seemed to be to turn up anyway and then if it is closed then bribe an official (I know, I seem to be living in a different world at the moment). So the next morning I set off bright and early armed with with dollars trying too look as sweet and hopeless as possible.

The journey from Darjeeling to the border was surprisingly easy. I had no problems finding a jeep to Silguri and we had glorious weather down the track. Got caught in a traffic jam, which was fun and meant I got to see the toy train up close (yes here trains get caught in traffic jams along with ever one else). Also spotted for the first time the genius road signs along the road to Darjeeling. "Drive don't Fly", "Donate blood at the blood bank, not on this road" and my favorite."Enjoy the ride, don't commit suicide", such happy thoughts as you're travelling down the mountain.

In Silguri failed to find a jeep to the border, but the first bus I happened to see was going there so got on that in stead. Fun bus seemed to consist of me and my backpack and locals all taking there produce to the local market. I never did work out what my feet were resting on. Got a rickshaw to the border, left India and after crossing what seemed like the longest bridge in the world ever got to Nepal. 20minutes later I was proud owner of a Nepalese Visa (no bribing required). Found my coach booth with an hour to spare, within 14hours I should be in Kathmandu at my hotel having a shower, I was feeling good about this. Got on the coach, not quite as deluxe as I'd been lead to believe (as in not at all) but I was in a good mood so this was fine.

First 3 hours of the journey were fabulous, travelling through Nepal, getting to see the scenery, sure the ride was bumpy but that's too be expected.

Then it started to rain. this wasn't too bad except that the bus wasn't exactly waterproof and it wasn't long till I was sodden (think Winhill wet or Glastonbury 2005 wet for those of you who where there), then they announced to the bus for us all to hold on tight because the driver couldn't see where he was going. After about an hour of this and stopping 4 times to move trees, power lines e.t.c. out of the road we got to the ferry place to cross the road. Here we joined the queue of about 200 coaches, cars, lorries that had all missed the last ferry and would have to wait till morning. So I spent the next twelve hours wet and cold trying to get some sleep on the most uncomfortable of coaches and weeing outside in the rain on the side of the road. My shower was getting further and further away. Also the man sat next to me seemed to be under the impression that he could have half me seat as well as his own, I wouldn't care (yes I know thats a lie) but he wasn't even bigger that me.

Unsurprisingly I didn't get any sleep. Thankfully during the night our coach people had arranged it so we would use coaches on the other side of the river, so rather than waiting for our coaches turn we could be on the first ferry of the day on foot. Whoop, somebody finally seemed organised. All the people of my coach managed to catch the first ferry, so we were the first coach to leave double whoop!

A couple of hours later my happiness dissolved. Apparently someone had been beaten up in a local village. As a precaution the local police had closed the road, so I spent 5 and a half hours sat in some tiny village on a coach that wasn't moving with solid traffic blocking the road in both directions. Thankfully we were allowed of the coach to wander round buy food e.t.c. I managed to find a phone and ring my hotel to tell them that I was running late but not to give my room to anyone, I'm on my way.

We seemed to make good time after that to Kathmandu, even though we got stopped by the police and searched about 20 times. We finally arrive in Kathmandu at 04.00 a mere 37 hours after the coach had set off, with an extremely grumpy Vic. I got a taxi to my hotel (which thankfully I decided to stay somewhere swanky so had no curfew) at which point they tried to tell me I had no room and would have to wait till 9 o'clock till people had checked out. After I stood showing them my receipt for booking and that I had already paid, it dawned on them that I meant for that night, not the next.

Anyhow, I never want to get on a coach again, but I'm here, I've slept. Had a shower for what seemed like an hour and watched tragic telly (Goal 2 - living the dream, no less), I've been for an explore and love Kathmandu so far. So feeling better about things. I plan to be lazy again tomorrow and then see about sightseeing on Monday.

Sorry for the long post.