Sorry I haven't been on here for a while, I have been lazy, sorry that should be Lazy, with a capital L.
After the journey from hell I spent a week lazing about in Kathmandu (there was no way I was ready to go on another coach). did do some touristy stuff, I spent a day milling around Durbur square lot of temples) and went round the former palace. I did a couple of walking tours around the city and went on an adventure trying to find the immigration office. Mainly though I spent my time ambling around Thamel finding stuff to eat, in bars watching the local bands cover western rock music badly or in my room watching HBO or the Hallmark channel. In all it was the rest that needed from travelling. Also I was full of cold, so being lazy was required.
After a week in Kathmandu I have now come to Pokhara, Its on the banks of the Phewa Lake and has supposed views of the Annapurna Himalaya, unfortunately it is misty and I am yet to see them.
I got here yesterday (after a remarkable coach journey where we got here on time) and spent the afternoon looking round. This morning I got up early to see if was clear - it wasn't, then walked to the International Mountain Museum, a remarkably hard to find international museum. This was probably a lot better museum than the Himalayan Mountain Institute in Darjeeling (both on the same topic) but it acked the heart and fun of the HMI, also I seemed to be the only person in there which didn't help, perhaps I'm the first person to find it.
I've booked to go Canyoning in the next couple of days, which I can't decide whether it sounds great or terrifying. I'm might not yet go, I'm the only person booked and they need at least 3. Apart from that I have no steady plans for the moment, oh except for the weekend when I'm at the summertime music festival at The Last Resort (near the Tibet border).
Monday, April 27, 2009
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Darjeeling to Kathmandu
Right, so where to begin. After my last post, I heard from the British Foreign Office that the border to Nepal would be closed on my proposed day of travel. Nobody in Darjeeling seemed to know anything about this, popular consensus seemed to be to turn up anyway and then if it is closed then bribe an official (I know, I seem to be living in a different world at the moment). So the next morning I set off bright and early armed with with dollars trying too look as sweet and hopeless as possible.
The journey from Darjeeling to the border was surprisingly easy. I had no problems finding a jeep to Silguri and we had glorious weather down the track. Got caught in a traffic jam, which was fun and meant I got to see the toy train up close (yes here trains get caught in traffic jams along with ever one else). Also spotted for the first time the genius road signs along the road to Darjeeling. "Drive don't Fly", "Donate blood at the blood bank, not on this road" and my favorite."Enjoy the ride, don't commit suicide", such happy thoughts as you're travelling down the mountain.
In Silguri failed to find a jeep to the border, but the first bus I happened to see was going there so got on that in stead. Fun bus seemed to consist of me and my backpack and locals all taking there produce to the local market. I never did work out what my feet were resting on. Got a rickshaw to the border, left India and after crossing what seemed like the longest bridge in the world ever got to Nepal. 20minutes later I was proud owner of a Nepalese Visa (no bribing required). Found my coach booth with an hour to spare, within 14hours I should be in Kathmandu at my hotel having a shower, I was feeling good about this. Got on the coach, not quite as deluxe as I'd been lead to believe (as in not at all) but I was in a good mood so this was fine.
First 3 hours of the journey were fabulous, travelling through Nepal, getting to see the scenery, sure the ride was bumpy but that's too be expected.
Then it started to rain. this wasn't too bad except that the bus wasn't exactly waterproof and it wasn't long till I was sodden (think Winhill wet or Glastonbury 2005 wet for those of you who where there), then they announced to the bus for us all to hold on tight because the driver couldn't see where he was going. After about an hour of this and stopping 4 times to move trees, power lines e.t.c. out of the road we got to the ferry place to cross the road. Here we joined the queue of about 200 coaches, cars, lorries that had all missed the last ferry and would have to wait till morning. So I spent the next twelve hours wet and cold trying to get some sleep on the most uncomfortable of coaches and weeing outside in the rain on the side of the road. My shower was getting further and further away. Also the man sat next to me seemed to be under the impression that he could have half me seat as well as his own, I wouldn't care (yes I know thats a lie) but he wasn't even bigger that me.
Unsurprisingly I didn't get any sleep. Thankfully during the night our coach people had arranged it so we would use coaches on the other side of the river, so rather than waiting for our coaches turn we could be on the first ferry of the day on foot. Whoop, somebody finally seemed organised. All the people of my coach managed to catch the first ferry, so we were the first coach to leave double whoop!
A couple of hours later my happiness dissolved. Apparently someone had been beaten up in a local village. As a precaution the local police had closed the road, so I spent 5 and a half hours sat in some tiny village on a coach that wasn't moving with solid traffic blocking the road in both directions. Thankfully we were allowed of the coach to wander round buy food e.t.c. I managed to find a phone and ring my hotel to tell them that I was running late but not to give my room to anyone, I'm on my way.
We seemed to make good time after that to Kathmandu, even though we got stopped by the police and searched about 20 times. We finally arrive in Kathmandu at 04.00 a mere 37 hours after the coach had set off, with an extremely grumpy Vic. I got a taxi to my hotel (which thankfully I decided to stay somewhere swanky so had no curfew) at which point they tried to tell me I had no room and would have to wait till 9 o'clock till people had checked out. After I stood showing them my receipt for booking and that I had already paid, it dawned on them that I meant for that night, not the next.
Anyhow, I never want to get on a coach again, but I'm here, I've slept. Had a shower for what seemed like an hour and watched tragic telly (Goal 2 - living the dream, no less), I've been for an explore and love Kathmandu so far. So feeling better about things. I plan to be lazy again tomorrow and then see about sightseeing on Monday.
Sorry for the long post.
The journey from Darjeeling to the border was surprisingly easy. I had no problems finding a jeep to Silguri and we had glorious weather down the track. Got caught in a traffic jam, which was fun and meant I got to see the toy train up close (yes here trains get caught in traffic jams along with ever one else). Also spotted for the first time the genius road signs along the road to Darjeeling. "Drive don't Fly", "Donate blood at the blood bank, not on this road" and my favorite."Enjoy the ride, don't commit suicide", such happy thoughts as you're travelling down the mountain.
In Silguri failed to find a jeep to the border, but the first bus I happened to see was going there so got on that in stead. Fun bus seemed to consist of me and my backpack and locals all taking there produce to the local market. I never did work out what my feet were resting on. Got a rickshaw to the border, left India and after crossing what seemed like the longest bridge in the world ever got to Nepal. 20minutes later I was proud owner of a Nepalese Visa (no bribing required). Found my coach booth with an hour to spare, within 14hours I should be in Kathmandu at my hotel having a shower, I was feeling good about this. Got on the coach, not quite as deluxe as I'd been lead to believe (as in not at all) but I was in a good mood so this was fine.
First 3 hours of the journey were fabulous, travelling through Nepal, getting to see the scenery, sure the ride was bumpy but that's too be expected.
Then it started to rain. this wasn't too bad except that the bus wasn't exactly waterproof and it wasn't long till I was sodden (think Winhill wet or Glastonbury 2005 wet for those of you who where there), then they announced to the bus for us all to hold on tight because the driver couldn't see where he was going. After about an hour of this and stopping 4 times to move trees, power lines e.t.c. out of the road we got to the ferry place to cross the road. Here we joined the queue of about 200 coaches, cars, lorries that had all missed the last ferry and would have to wait till morning. So I spent the next twelve hours wet and cold trying to get some sleep on the most uncomfortable of coaches and weeing outside in the rain on the side of the road. My shower was getting further and further away. Also the man sat next to me seemed to be under the impression that he could have half me seat as well as his own, I wouldn't care (yes I know thats a lie) but he wasn't even bigger that me.
Unsurprisingly I didn't get any sleep. Thankfully during the night our coach people had arranged it so we would use coaches on the other side of the river, so rather than waiting for our coaches turn we could be on the first ferry of the day on foot. Whoop, somebody finally seemed organised. All the people of my coach managed to catch the first ferry, so we were the first coach to leave double whoop!
A couple of hours later my happiness dissolved. Apparently someone had been beaten up in a local village. As a precaution the local police had closed the road, so I spent 5 and a half hours sat in some tiny village on a coach that wasn't moving with solid traffic blocking the road in both directions. Thankfully we were allowed of the coach to wander round buy food e.t.c. I managed to find a phone and ring my hotel to tell them that I was running late but not to give my room to anyone, I'm on my way.
We seemed to make good time after that to Kathmandu, even though we got stopped by the police and searched about 20 times. We finally arrive in Kathmandu at 04.00 a mere 37 hours after the coach had set off, with an extremely grumpy Vic. I got a taxi to my hotel (which thankfully I decided to stay somewhere swanky so had no curfew) at which point they tried to tell me I had no room and would have to wait till 9 o'clock till people had checked out. After I stood showing them my receipt for booking and that I had already paid, it dawned on them that I meant for that night, not the next.
Anyhow, I never want to get on a coach again, but I'm here, I've slept. Had a shower for what seemed like an hour and watched tragic telly (Goal 2 - living the dream, no less), I've been for an explore and love Kathmandu so far. So feeling better about things. I plan to be lazy again tomorrow and then see about sightseeing on Monday.
Sorry for the long post.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Darjeeling
So after spending a couple of days being lazy and wondering aimlessly around Darjeeling and happening upon people I've already met, then going for tea and cake (its that kind of town), I finally got off my lazy arse and did something yesterday.
I went to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. To get there I also had to visit the zoo (joint access and on the same ticket), so after walking past some very sad looking animals (incl. a snow leopard, which I'm pretty sure I could take in a fight - with or without guild backing, Mark!) I got to the insititute. The whole place originated of the back of a certain Mr Norgays accomplishments. As such its kind of a little shrine to him and his fellow successful Sherpas, which is quite nice. The whole place is a bit run down but apparently the new museum will be opening soon. Got to see loads of the original equipment used by Mr Norgay and other succesful Everest, K2, Kangchenzonga (apparently they only stopped people climbing it quite recently) climbs which was quite cool.
Walked round the rest of the zoo, it seemed rude not to as I'd already payed and saw some more pretty miserable looking animals.
After the zoo I walked to the Happy Valley Tea Plantation, went on a tour of the factory (not much to see, seems like a pretty simple process) pointed out that I don't actually like Darjeeling tea (shock / horror) even if it is the stuff they sell at Harrods and therefore don't want to buy any. Had a walk round the tea plantation, which was very nice. I quite bizarrely had a Indian General pointed out to me and from the way the guide was acting I think I am supposed to have heard of him, needless to say I hadn't, oh well.
Today so far I have failed to find a Buddhist monastary. I'm going to try a different route and go to Observation hill where there are monkeys apparently.
I've booked my coach ticket to Kathmandhu for tomorrow, so should get there on Friday. I have the luxury of a hot shower in the hotel I'm booked in to, to look forward to. After spending nearly two weeks in a place where there is severe water shortages and a bucket of water to wash in, this is bliss.
I went to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. To get there I also had to visit the zoo (joint access and on the same ticket), so after walking past some very sad looking animals (incl. a snow leopard, which I'm pretty sure I could take in a fight - with or without guild backing, Mark!) I got to the insititute. The whole place originated of the back of a certain Mr Norgays accomplishments. As such its kind of a little shrine to him and his fellow successful Sherpas, which is quite nice. The whole place is a bit run down but apparently the new museum will be opening soon. Got to see loads of the original equipment used by Mr Norgay and other succesful Everest, K2, Kangchenzonga (apparently they only stopped people climbing it quite recently) climbs which was quite cool.
Walked round the rest of the zoo, it seemed rude not to as I'd already payed and saw some more pretty miserable looking animals.
After the zoo I walked to the Happy Valley Tea Plantation, went on a tour of the factory (not much to see, seems like a pretty simple process) pointed out that I don't actually like Darjeeling tea (shock / horror) even if it is the stuff they sell at Harrods and therefore don't want to buy any. Had a walk round the tea plantation, which was very nice. I quite bizarrely had a Indian General pointed out to me and from the way the guide was acting I think I am supposed to have heard of him, needless to say I hadn't, oh well.
Today so far I have failed to find a Buddhist monastary. I'm going to try a different route and go to Observation hill where there are monkeys apparently.
I've booked my coach ticket to Kathmandhu for tomorrow, so should get there on Friday. I have the luxury of a hot shower in the hotel I'm booked in to, to look forward to. After spending nearly two weeks in a place where there is severe water shortages and a bucket of water to wash in, this is bliss.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Singalila Ridge Trek
07.04.09 - 11.04.09, 5 days 88km (I don't want to find out what it is in miles as I have a feeling it will sound a lot less impressive).
07.04.09.
Mana Bhanjang (2130m) to Tonglu (3100m) 14km
Got up nice and early as I was told that the guide would be picking me up from my hotel at 07.45. I was still waiting at 08.15 and decided I had been stood up. Apparently the rest of the people doing the trek were still eating breakfast. So eventually got picked up at 09.00. I managed to remain calm though.
My fellow hikers were a lovely American family and a couple of their friends who had said I could join their trip. the family consisted of three brothers, a sister and their Dad. A couple who knew the oldest brother made up the group.
Took the 2 hour trip to Mana Bhanjang driving through mist in a jeep that was quite a tight squeeze. Showed our passports for the first of what will seem to be hundreds of times as we walk along the West Bengal / Nepalese / Sikkim borders. Started trekking at about lunchtime. We set off at the same time as a boys school party, who all seemed to be amazed that women in the West go on long walks. The walk was all uphill as would become a theme for the next two days. The fog set in just before we stopped for lunch, so happily trudged uphill watching the people dissapear into the mist. I found it quite hard going. Me and Padma (daughter of the family) quite happily set of after some others on a short cut (a quite clear path) ahead of the quicker walkers to make up some ground. It wasn't long before we couldn't see the people in front of us (mist) and were happily ambling along. After about 20 minutes we started to realise that it was a bit strange that the faster people behind us (including our guide and porter) had not caught us up. Thinking that we had perhaps gone wrong we headed back to the main trail. We sat and waited for 10minutes in case by some miracle we were ahead of the rest and then carried on up the trail to where we presumed the rest would be waiting for us. Arpen (our guide) found us about 10 minutes later running up the path. Apparently we were way ahead of the rest (we were quite smug about this) and we had to wait while they all caught up. The 2 of us were established as trouble makers from then on.
Went to Nepal for lunch, had Ramen (noodle soup) and tea, it was lovely, then back onto the trail for the seemingly neverending truge upwards. By this time the mist had descended completely and spent the whole time watching the path in front of you and trying not to loose sight of the person in front (I didn't want to get lost and told off again).
Got to Tonglu at around 17.00 and decided to stop there for the night. The Tea House/Lodge was run by a lovely woman called Neela who sorted us out for a gorgeous tea and a Fumbar (millet beer), which is the oddest drink I have ever drunk. Sat huddled round a fire with my group and the other people staying at the lodge (a British Couple and another American). Went to bed at 20.30.
08.04.09
Tonglu to Sandakphu (3636m) 19km
Woken up at 05.00 by Arpen as apparently its a clear day and you can see Kangchendzonga (the highest mountain in India and the 3rd highest in the world, also sacred to Bhuddists). Glorious views and hot tea made the early start tolerable. Had breakfast and set of trekking nice and early. The early stages of the day were lovely, nice weather, not too steeper climbs and quite a few stretches of flat parts. We were informed though that the 6km after lunch were all up hill, the last 4 particularly steep and the last 1/2 the steepest of the trek. Hmmmm, not exactly what you want to here when you've already trekked 13km, to top things off the weather had deteriated and you could just see in front of you. I think I now know what it feels like to be a Hobbit walking into Mordor. After what seemed like an eternity got to the place we were staying. Unfortunately the night befores standards had given us unrealistic expectations, even the Fumbar wasn't as nice. Went to a cold bed at 20.00 ready for an early morning.
09.04.09
Sandakphu to Phalut (3600m) 21km
Happy Birthday to me (well partly)
The day didn't start brilliantly, when I was poisoned by the tea house. I had quite happily eaten most of my breakfast, when I decided to have some omelete, unfortunately this appeared to be salt flavoured and I spent the next twenty minutes throwing up. So tired, hungry and extremely grumpy I set off. The weather wasn't great, slightly misty, gloomy but not dreadful. The walk was very pleasant, mainly gentle up and downs. At around 4km mark, I went over on my ankle (which hurt for the rest of the trek downhill) which was nice. Stopped for luch at around 14km by which point I was extremely grumpy, everybody else was also a bit down, which meant it was nice when Arpen presented us with a cake and kitkats before the obligatory Ramen.
In the afternoon, the weather had brightened up and with food inside me so had my mood. I hardly even struggled up the last 2km (apparently the last bit of the days walk must end in a hill). The accomadation at Phalut was the goverment one (only one available) and very basic indeed (broken windows and corrugated plastic walls), at least it is in the main dorm, I had a lovely little room in an individual cabin with wooden walls and whole windows (it was decided that I could have this as it was my birthday). Matt and Kaitlin (Amerian couple trekking with) let me share their whiskey and then we had tea (much the same as everywhere else). After tea the most extreme weather I have ever experienced started. It hailed 4inches in 30minutes and the thunder and lightning was spectacular, we stood outside (in said hail) watching the lightning light up the hillside, so bright it seemed like daylight.
So cold that night, I slept in all my clothes (including my coat) with 3 blankets over my sleeping bag.
Still freezing but thankfully, unlike those in the main dorm, I wasn't snowed on during the night and my blankets were dry.
10.04,09
Phalut to Rammam (2530km) via Gorkey 21km.
Woke up at 5 to go and watch the sunrise, took one look outside and decided to stay in bed. Thick snow everywhere and very cold. Had a breakfast of last nights leftovers and set off for the walk, beautiful if not somewhat cold day. clear skies giving perfect views of Kangchendzonga. Very much fun walking through the snow, I don't think it would have felt right to walk through the Himalayas without seeing snow.
Half an hour later, glorious sunshine and hiking in a t-shirt. Most of the days walking was down hill, so after to and half hours we'd covered 13km (most of which spent solving riddles and joined by Alicia and Tony - British couple from Tonglu) in 2 1/2 hours. We got to Gorkey, perhaps the most beautiful village in the world, where we were due to have lunch (ramen again). As we'd made such good progress during the morning we stopped here for 3 hours and played in the river. The afternoon was spent mostly walking through wood (uphill obviously) to the next tea house. Lovely accommadation, horrid food but was warm and I was actually too hot during the night. yay.
11.04.09
Rammam to Rimbik (2290) 14kms
Last leg of the trek and I have to admit that I was sick of it by this point and just wanted to finish. I had one foot that hurt going uphill and my ankle still hurt if going downhill. Absolutely beautiful country to walk through and glorious weather. Quite easy and steady going so were finished by lunchtime.
The journey back to Darjeeling was quite uneventful, if not a bit long. Happily got given a bucket of hot water to wash in (heaven after 5 days of only washing once in a freezing river).
So I got back slightly sorer, a camera lighter and never wanting to wear my Merrells again. It was amazing the views I've seen and the country side I've walked through. Parts of it were very hard but I'm proud of the fact that I managed it.
A big thankyou to my group, who let me travel with them and especially to Arpen and Sanjay, guide porter and tea makers extrodinare.
07.04.09.
Mana Bhanjang (2130m) to Tonglu (3100m) 14km
Got up nice and early as I was told that the guide would be picking me up from my hotel at 07.45. I was still waiting at 08.15 and decided I had been stood up. Apparently the rest of the people doing the trek were still eating breakfast. So eventually got picked up at 09.00. I managed to remain calm though.
My fellow hikers were a lovely American family and a couple of their friends who had said I could join their trip. the family consisted of three brothers, a sister and their Dad. A couple who knew the oldest brother made up the group.
Took the 2 hour trip to Mana Bhanjang driving through mist in a jeep that was quite a tight squeeze. Showed our passports for the first of what will seem to be hundreds of times as we walk along the West Bengal / Nepalese / Sikkim borders. Started trekking at about lunchtime. We set off at the same time as a boys school party, who all seemed to be amazed that women in the West go on long walks. The walk was all uphill as would become a theme for the next two days. The fog set in just before we stopped for lunch, so happily trudged uphill watching the people dissapear into the mist. I found it quite hard going. Me and Padma (daughter of the family) quite happily set of after some others on a short cut (a quite clear path) ahead of the quicker walkers to make up some ground. It wasn't long before we couldn't see the people in front of us (mist) and were happily ambling along. After about 20 minutes we started to realise that it was a bit strange that the faster people behind us (including our guide and porter) had not caught us up. Thinking that we had perhaps gone wrong we headed back to the main trail. We sat and waited for 10minutes in case by some miracle we were ahead of the rest and then carried on up the trail to where we presumed the rest would be waiting for us. Arpen (our guide) found us about 10 minutes later running up the path. Apparently we were way ahead of the rest (we were quite smug about this) and we had to wait while they all caught up. The 2 of us were established as trouble makers from then on.
Went to Nepal for lunch, had Ramen (noodle soup) and tea, it was lovely, then back onto the trail for the seemingly neverending truge upwards. By this time the mist had descended completely and spent the whole time watching the path in front of you and trying not to loose sight of the person in front (I didn't want to get lost and told off again).
Got to Tonglu at around 17.00 and decided to stop there for the night. The Tea House/Lodge was run by a lovely woman called Neela who sorted us out for a gorgeous tea and a Fumbar (millet beer), which is the oddest drink I have ever drunk. Sat huddled round a fire with my group and the other people staying at the lodge (a British Couple and another American). Went to bed at 20.30.
08.04.09
Tonglu to Sandakphu (3636m) 19km
Woken up at 05.00 by Arpen as apparently its a clear day and you can see Kangchendzonga (the highest mountain in India and the 3rd highest in the world, also sacred to Bhuddists). Glorious views and hot tea made the early start tolerable. Had breakfast and set of trekking nice and early. The early stages of the day were lovely, nice weather, not too steeper climbs and quite a few stretches of flat parts. We were informed though that the 6km after lunch were all up hill, the last 4 particularly steep and the last 1/2 the steepest of the trek. Hmmmm, not exactly what you want to here when you've already trekked 13km, to top things off the weather had deteriated and you could just see in front of you. I think I now know what it feels like to be a Hobbit walking into Mordor. After what seemed like an eternity got to the place we were staying. Unfortunately the night befores standards had given us unrealistic expectations, even the Fumbar wasn't as nice. Went to a cold bed at 20.00 ready for an early morning.
09.04.09
Sandakphu to Phalut (3600m) 21km
Happy Birthday to me (well partly)
The day didn't start brilliantly, when I was poisoned by the tea house. I had quite happily eaten most of my breakfast, when I decided to have some omelete, unfortunately this appeared to be salt flavoured and I spent the next twenty minutes throwing up. So tired, hungry and extremely grumpy I set off. The weather wasn't great, slightly misty, gloomy but not dreadful. The walk was very pleasant, mainly gentle up and downs. At around 4km mark, I went over on my ankle (which hurt for the rest of the trek downhill) which was nice. Stopped for luch at around 14km by which point I was extremely grumpy, everybody else was also a bit down, which meant it was nice when Arpen presented us with a cake and kitkats before the obligatory Ramen.
In the afternoon, the weather had brightened up and with food inside me so had my mood. I hardly even struggled up the last 2km (apparently the last bit of the days walk must end in a hill). The accomadation at Phalut was the goverment one (only one available) and very basic indeed (broken windows and corrugated plastic walls), at least it is in the main dorm, I had a lovely little room in an individual cabin with wooden walls and whole windows (it was decided that I could have this as it was my birthday). Matt and Kaitlin (Amerian couple trekking with) let me share their whiskey and then we had tea (much the same as everywhere else). After tea the most extreme weather I have ever experienced started. It hailed 4inches in 30minutes and the thunder and lightning was spectacular, we stood outside (in said hail) watching the lightning light up the hillside, so bright it seemed like daylight.
So cold that night, I slept in all my clothes (including my coat) with 3 blankets over my sleeping bag.
Still freezing but thankfully, unlike those in the main dorm, I wasn't snowed on during the night and my blankets were dry.
10.04,09
Phalut to Rammam (2530km) via Gorkey 21km.
Woke up at 5 to go and watch the sunrise, took one look outside and decided to stay in bed. Thick snow everywhere and very cold. Had a breakfast of last nights leftovers and set off for the walk, beautiful if not somewhat cold day. clear skies giving perfect views of Kangchendzonga. Very much fun walking through the snow, I don't think it would have felt right to walk through the Himalayas without seeing snow.
Half an hour later, glorious sunshine and hiking in a t-shirt. Most of the days walking was down hill, so after to and half hours we'd covered 13km (most of which spent solving riddles and joined by Alicia and Tony - British couple from Tonglu) in 2 1/2 hours. We got to Gorkey, perhaps the most beautiful village in the world, where we were due to have lunch (ramen again). As we'd made such good progress during the morning we stopped here for 3 hours and played in the river. The afternoon was spent mostly walking through wood (uphill obviously) to the next tea house. Lovely accommadation, horrid food but was warm and I was actually too hot during the night. yay.
11.04.09
Rammam to Rimbik (2290) 14kms
Last leg of the trek and I have to admit that I was sick of it by this point and just wanted to finish. I had one foot that hurt going uphill and my ankle still hurt if going downhill. Absolutely beautiful country to walk through and glorious weather. Quite easy and steady going so were finished by lunchtime.
The journey back to Darjeeling was quite uneventful, if not a bit long. Happily got given a bucket of hot water to wash in (heaven after 5 days of only washing once in a freezing river).
So I got back slightly sorer, a camera lighter and never wanting to wear my Merrells again. It was amazing the views I've seen and the country side I've walked through. Parts of it were very hard but I'm proud of the fact that I managed it.
A big thankyou to my group, who let me travel with them and especially to Arpen and Sanjay, guide porter and tea makers extrodinare.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Darjeeling
I'm back. I'm sore in places but happily made it.
I'll post tomorrow when I feel a bit more alive, as at the moment it's half eight and way past my bedtime.
I'll post tomorrow when I feel a bit more alive, as at the moment it's half eight and way past my bedtime.
Monday, April 6, 2009
Darjeeling
Right folks, I'm in Darjeeling, the weather is mild with occasional rain and I'm loving it.
Tomorrow I'm setting off on a 90km trek around some of the mountains here. I won't be online for 5 or six days. please try not to worry too much.
Vic.
Tomorrow I'm setting off on a 90km trek around some of the mountains here. I won't be online for 5 or six days. please try not to worry too much.
Vic.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Hungover in Calcutta
So last night I ended up going on a beer hunting mission with a Canadian. All the off lincenses were shut so we ended up buying beer off a man who knew a man who could get beer. Unfortunately he didn't point out that they only had super strong. So I spent the night drinking tramps juice. Fair to say I feel horrid today. Looking forward to going to Darjeling tonight though.
Friday, April 3, 2009
Mysore to Calcutta the hard way.
So since I last talked to you a lot seems to have happened. I'm afraid I cannot give you a cat/kitten update, I never saw them again. I can't believe that some of you believed I would just go and yank it out, my main concern was lack of camera.
On Tuesday night went to the swankiest restaurant I have ever eaten in, sat the whole night giggling at how fab it was and how bad i looked. I felt like a British princess whose Dad had just taken over India, it was that swanky.
Wednesday, went on a manic 13hour tour of Mysore, this inluded the zoo, an art gallery, the Palace, three temples, a church, a mosque, a giant bull, a fort and rather bizzarely an illuminated gardens including light show and music (it felt like being at a music festival the amount of people around and the atmosphere, but the show was a bit of a let down, all I can guess is that Indian people are easily amused. It was a long day on the tour but it meant I got to see al the sights of Mysore with little trouble to myself. It was slightly wierd that everyone else on the tour was Indian tourists (their school holidays) and also had to guess what the tour guide was saying (Hindu) but fun non the less. Went straight out for dinner when the tour had finished and more importantly a cold beer and sat with some lovely Austrailians.
The rest of my time since then has been spent getting to Calcutta. This involved a coach to Bangalore (no Bollywood this time, very dissappointing), train from there to Chennai and then the train up to Calcutta. Very tiring but fun. My first impressions of Calcutta are not favouable. There appears to be mountains of rubbish everywhere and I get hassled a lot (even for here) everytime I leave the door. I've done all my washing today and have every intention of pottering for the rest of the day, will sight see tomorrow.
On the sleeper train to Darjeling tomorrow, so will hopefully stop melting then.
On Tuesday night went to the swankiest restaurant I have ever eaten in, sat the whole night giggling at how fab it was and how bad i looked. I felt like a British princess whose Dad had just taken over India, it was that swanky.
Wednesday, went on a manic 13hour tour of Mysore, this inluded the zoo, an art gallery, the Palace, three temples, a church, a mosque, a giant bull, a fort and rather bizzarely an illuminated gardens including light show and music (it felt like being at a music festival the amount of people around and the atmosphere, but the show was a bit of a let down, all I can guess is that Indian people are easily amused. It was a long day on the tour but it meant I got to see al the sights of Mysore with little trouble to myself. It was slightly wierd that everyone else on the tour was Indian tourists (their school holidays) and also had to guess what the tour guide was saying (Hindu) but fun non the less. Went straight out for dinner when the tour had finished and more importantly a cold beer and sat with some lovely Austrailians.
The rest of my time since then has been spent getting to Calcutta. This involved a coach to Bangalore (no Bollywood this time, very dissappointing), train from there to Chennai and then the train up to Calcutta. Very tiring but fun. My first impressions of Calcutta are not favouable. There appears to be mountains of rubbish everywhere and I get hassled a lot (even for here) everytime I leave the door. I've done all my washing today and have every intention of pottering for the rest of the day, will sight see tomorrow.
On the sleeper train to Darjeling tomorrow, so will hopefully stop melting then.
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